Happy new year

Classic cocktails are classics for a reason — they typically taste good, are fairly easy to make and can please different palates. Why muddle with that?

Many were invented in the 1800s, perfected during Prohibition and passed down from generation to generation as symbolic ideals of their ingredients. They've come to represent a certain film-noir stylishness — think William Powell and Myrna Loy in "The Thin Man."

The standard text for many of these drinks was for a long time Mr. Boston, known as "The Official Bartender's Guide." The first edition had its inaugural printing in 1935, owing much of its content to the original Boston Bartender's School and its founder and chief instructor, Joseph DeSoto. Editor Leo Cotton, who looked after it through 49 editions, guided the book over 35 years.

During the holidays, celebrate the season of hope and joy with a classic cocktail, lift a glass in good cheer and ring in the new year with charm and elegance.

The following recipes are all Mr. Boston originals (unless otherwise stated) and account for one serving. Make one for yourself. Make more for your friends.

The Brandy Alexander was developed during Prohibition as a way to overcome bad brandy. The Brandy Alexander perseveres as a nice wintertime drink.

Brandy Alexander

Makes 1 serving

? ounce cr?e de cacao

? ounce brandy

? ounce heavy cream

Shake well with cracked ice and strain into a cocktail glass.

The legend behind the Manhattan says it was created for Sir Winston Churchill's mother, Lady Randolph, upon her visit to the Manhattan Club in New York in 1874. It was originally made with rye. The rye-shy may prefer to use bourbon, a sweeter complement to vermouth.

Manhattan

Makes 1 serving

? ounce sweet vermouth

1? ounces whiskey (rye, bourbon or a blended whiskey)

Stir with ice and strain into cocktail glass. Serve with a cherry. For a Dry Manhattan, serve with an olive.

For variation's sake, Doug "Bix" Biederbeck of Bix Restaurant in San Francisco offers what he calls the Perfect Manhattan, saying that what makes it perfect is the use of both sweet and dry vermouth. He notes that, "the cocktail can effectively cure anyone with an aversion to whiskey."

Perfect Manhattan

Makes 1 serving

1? ounces rye whiskey

? ounce sweet vermouth

? ounce dry vermouth

1-2 drops Angostura bitters

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker over ice and stir or shake gently. Strain into a chilled stemmed glass. Garnish with a cherry.

Biederback adds, "Shaking your Manhattan vigorously in a cocktail shaker will over-dilute the drink; gently rocking it back and forth will do the trick. You could even forgo shaking entirely and try stirring your ingredients instead. Try making your Manhattan with Carpano Antica, the original Italian sweet vermouth. Slightly drier, it will add a little weight to the drink."

There are at least half a million variations on the Martini, but we're sticking to the classic recipe, referred to as the "Traditional 2-to-1" in Mr. Boston. The type of gin you use is entirely up to you, but note that Tanqueray, Bombay Sapphire and Beefeater tend to have higher proofs (94-95); Plymouth, Bombay and Hendrick's are lower (82-88).

Martini

Makes 1 serving

1? ounces gin

? ounce dry vermouth

Stir vermouth and gin over ice cubes in a mixing glass. Strain into a cocktail glass. Serve with a twist of lemon peel or an olive.

Created in Kentucky, the classic recipe for an Old Fashioned may call for blended whiskey, but use bourbon and you're truly going back to its roots. An old-fashioned glass, which you'll need here, is one that's sturdy and heavy-bottomed, with enough room at the bottom to muddle the fruit, sugar and bitters properly. This is the drink of Don Draper on the stylish hit TV show, "Mad Men."

Into the old-fashioned glass, put a small cube of sugar, a dash of bitters and a teaspoon of water and muddle well. Add 2 ounces blended whiskey. Stir. Add a twist of lemon peel and ice cubes. Decorate with slices of orange, lemon and a cherry. Serve with a swizzle stick.

Before Mr. Boston there was "Rawling's Book of Mixed Drinks," published in 1914 by San Francisco bartender Ernest P. Rawling. In it, he detailed the popularity of a new kind of drink, the Fizz, describing it thus - "When the spirits are jaded and the body is weary, after a long automobile trip on hot and dusty roads, it is then that the Gin Fizz comes like a cooling breeze from the sea, bringing new life and zest and joy of living." Perhaps not surprisingly, then, it is also commonly used as a hangover cure.

Ramos Fizz

Makes 1 serving

— Juice of ? lemon

1 egg white

1 teaspoon powdered sugar

2 ounces gin

1 tablespoon light cream

? teaspoon triple sec

Shake with ice and strain into a highball glass over two ice cubes. Fill with carbonated water and stir.

We couldn't resist also asking the Healdsburg cocktail lounge Barndiva for its version of a Fizz. Here's what lead bartender Stefan Ravelli provided:

Barndiva's Ramos Gin Fizz

Makes 1 serving

2 ounces Broker's Gin

1 ounce heavy cream

1 egg white

— Juice of ? a lemon

— Juice of ? a lime

? to ? ounce ginger-vanilla syrup

3 drops French orange blossom water

Chill a Collins glass. Shake ingredients without ice for 10 seconds. Add ice to your shaker. Shake for seven minutes. Strain into glass without ice and top with chilled soda.

Ravelli notes: "That's right, seven minutes. If this seems like a long time on paper, it is even longer when the physical strain of vigorous muscle movement begins to take hold. The cocktail IS drinkable after a couple minutes of shaking (the aforementioned dry shake helps with that), but if you want a classic Gin Fizz, seven is the original specification. Fizzes are always served tall and without ice to encourage quick consumption while the bubbles are still lively. No garnish is necessary unless you really feel the drink needs some color."

The Rob Roy is essentially a Manhattan made with Scotch. Note that cocktail historian David Wondrich personally finds French vermouth and Scotch "to be a nasty combination," so he suggests using Italian vermouth and the addition of orange bitters (specifically Regans' Orange Bitters No. 6) and a twist of orange peel to the drink. Do as you will.

Rob Roy

Makes 1 serving

? ounce sweet vermouth

1? ounces Scotch

Stir with ice and strain into cocktail glass.

The Sazerac Coffee House in New Orleans originated this soon-to-be classic, based in its early days on Sazerac Rye. Rye whiskey is still made there, in addition to a popular type of bitters, Peychaud's. Some versions of the recipe call for pastis or Herbsaint, two other types of anise-flavored alcohols, instead of absinthe.

Sazerac

Makes 1 serving

Put ? teaspoon absinthe into an old-fashioned glass and revolve glass until is entirely coated. Then add:

? lump of sugar

2 dashes bitters

— Sufficient water to cover sugar and muddle well.

2 cubes of ice

2 ounces bourbon, blended whiskey or rye

Stir very well. Add twist of lemon peel. For best results, put glass on ice for a few minutes before mixing.

The Sidecar is said to have originated at Harry's Bar in Paris in the early 1900s, in honor of a customer who did indeed ride around in a motorcycle sidecar. The Sidecar is also the supposed inspiration behind the Margarita and Daiquiri. Cocktail author Mittie Hellmich ("Ultimate Bar Book") likes to sugarcoat the rim of the glass and add a twist of lemon. She also suggests the glass be well chilled.

Sidecar

Makes 1 serving

— Juice of ? lemon

? ounce triple sec

1 ounce brandy

Shake with ice and strain into cocktail glass.

Midnight Harvest (Barndiva's take on a Sidecar)

Makes 1 serving

1? ounces Germain-Robin Craft Method Brandy

1 ounce house-made pumpkin curry liqueur

? ounce blood orange juice squeezed to order

? ounce fresh lemon juice

? ounce brown sugar syrup

Shake and serve up. Cut a round piece of orange peel, flame it over the drink, then drape the warm peel to the side of the glass.

Ravelli notes: "We did not want a pumpkin-pie-in-a-glass cocktail. So to create the base mixture, after initially roasting the sugar pie pumpkin we slow-cook the pulp using traditional Christmas spices — brown sugar, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, vanilla, ginger and mace — to which we add savory curry spices — cumin, cardamom, coriander, black pepper, cayenne, turmeric and fenugreek. (Then) we steeped this mixture in rye for two weeks. With Germain-Robin and just a dash of fresh citrus juices, the result is bright and zesty, but with the right combination of charm and elegance one should expect from a Sidecar."

Virginie Boone is a freelance wine writer based in Sonoma County. She can be reached at virginieboone@yahoo.com.

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